This
is my last essay this year, but I will continue the series in 2024.
As
I said in my previous essay, I have just moved to Strasbourg, France. It is a relief
to be here, where life is just not as dangerous as in America. In America,
there may be more guns than people. And in America, if you need a bottle of
Jardiance pills for diabetes, you will have to pay $800, even if you have
Medicare and supplemental insurance. In France, it will be a long time before I
qualify for French health care, but even if I have to buy pills for myself, it
won’t be any freaking $800.
But
meanwhile, I am going through a period of adjustment. This is the inspiration
for my short series, Welcome, Stranger. Today, the French language.
One
problem with the French people is that they speak French. And French is a very
difficult language. To people who have grown up speaking it, it is simple, and
this is true for any language in the world. My granddaughter, age 5, already
talks in French, not thinking about grammar or vocabulary. She just learned it
from the other kids at school. She has even gotten the French snotty-sounding
R, perhaps a little too much. But for older people like myself, learning a new
language is difficult. I have studied French not intensely but consistently for
ten years, and I can read it fairly well, and construct a few simple sentences.
But a French person speaking at full speed leaves me behind in the dust. I
watch Jamy Gourmaud’s Youtube videos, but even at speed 0.75 I can only
understand it with the French subtitles.
In
Paris, I am told (having been there as briefly as possible on my way to or from
Strasbourg), the people pretend to not understand you if you try to speak
French. This has led to some comedy routines such as Chef Louis and Garrison
Keillor on the old Prairie Home Companion radio shows. Keillor would try to
order something off of the menu, and the waiter would get angry at him: “Why
did you call my mother a suitcase?” But in Strasbourg, at least, if a native
English speaker is quiet, polite, and makes a sincere effort, most people are
appreciative. In our suburb, Hoenheim, we are about the only Americans, and my
wife and I have the reputation of being the cute little old couple who are
trying to speak French.
Don’t
get me wrong. French is a wonderful language. Even just to look at it is
beautiful. One of the first things you will notice is the diacritical marks.
Lots of them. They have two kinds of accent marks for e, one of them rising,
the other falling. What is a shepherd? Il élève des moutons. They denote
slight differences in pronunciation. Sometimes diacritical marks denote
differences in meaning; a means he/she/it has, while à means to.
A C with a cedilla means that the C, which would normally sound like a K before
vowels a, o, and u, instead sounds like an S: Ça y est! And then there
is the circumflex, which as far as I can tell exists only to designate that, in
the past, the vowel was followed by an s or an x. In French, forest has
become forêt, castle has become château, and hostel
has become hôtel. Être used to be like the Spanish estar
(to be). When you look at a page of French writing, the diacritical marks poke
at you like the piqûres of mosquitoes. It is surely (sûrement)
and extremely (extrêmement) thrilling.
And
the French love their diacritical marks. Recently the French Academy, the
gatekeeper of French language, decided that diacritical marks were unnecessary.
But the marks are still everywhere. The French love them because they are part
of what it means to be French! You will find them even at tram stops, as in
these two photos: the Général DeGaulle tram stop, and the map that says you are
here (vous êtes ici).
If the government
tried to remove the diacritical marks from public signs, there would probably
be a big strike that would shut down the tram lines. Give us back our
diacritical marks! Strike is grève, where we get our word grievance.)
I
have more examples in the next essay. See you then.